/* ---------- tokens ---------- */
:root {
  --paper: #FBF2EA;   /* warm peach-paper */
  --surface: #FFFFFF;
  --ink: #3B2620;     /* espresso */
  --stone: #7A5D52;   /* secondary text */
  --rule: #EBD6C7;
  --sea: #B2364C;     /* pomegranate: links and places */
  --sun: #F5A93B;     /* saffron: bookings and tips */
  --sun-ink: #3B2108;
  --band: #5A2A3A;    /* deep plum newsletter band */
  --band-ink: #FBF2EA;
  --blush: #F6DCCF;

  --display: "Young Serif", "Iowan Old Style", Georgia, serif;
  --ui: "Figtree", "Avenir Next", "Segoe UI", system-ui, sans-serif;
  --text: var(--ui);
  --measure: 38rem;
  --wide: 72rem;
  --gutter: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 2.5rem);
  color-scheme: light;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    --paper: #1F1613; --surface: #2B1F1B; --ink: #F5E7DD; --stone: #C4A99C; --rule: #43302A;
    --sea: #F28C9D; --band: #33171F; --band-ink: #F5E7DD; --blush: #3A2621;
    color-scheme: dark;
  }
}

/* ---------- base ---------- */
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body {
  margin: 0; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink);
  font: 400 1.15rem/1.72 var(--text);
  font-optical-sizing: auto;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
}
img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--sea); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 0.18em; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--sun); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 2px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.12; letter-spacing: -0.01em; margin: 0; text-wrap: balance; }
code { font-size: 0.85em; background: var(--surface); padding: 0.1em 0.35em; border-radius: 10px; }
.sr { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; top: 0; background: var(--sun); color: var(--sun-ink); padding: 0.5rem 1rem; z-index: 10; }
.skip:focus { left: 1rem; top: 1rem; }

/* ---------- masthead ---------- */
.masthead {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.25rem var(--gutter);
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: 0.5rem 2rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
.brand { font: 400 1.6rem/1 var(--display); letter-spacing: -0.01em; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.masthead nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.5rem; font: 500 1rem/1.4 var(--ui); }
.masthead nav a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; padding: 0.25rem 0; }
.masthead nav a:hover, .masthead nav a[aria-current] { color: var(--sea); box-shadow: inset 0 -2px 0 currentColor; }

/* ---------- shared bits ---------- */
.place { font: 600 1rem/1.3 var(--ui); color: var(--sea); margin: 0 0 0.6rem; }
.place a { text-decoration: none; }
.place a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.meta { font: 400 0.95rem/1.4 var(--ui); color: var(--stone); margin: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.25rem; }

/* ---------- home lead ---------- */
.lead {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3.5rem) var(--gutter) 0;
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.3fr 1fr; gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3.5rem); align-items: end;
}
.lead-media { display: block; }
.lead-img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 14px; }
.lead h2 { font-size: clamp(2.3rem, 5.2vw, 4.25rem); letter-spacing: -0.015em; margin-bottom: 1.1rem; }
.lead h2 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.lead h2 a:hover { color: var(--sea); }
.lead-excerpt { margin: 0 0 1.75rem; font-size: 1.25rem; color: var(--stone); max-width: 30rem; }
.read {
  display: inline-block; font: 600 1rem/1 var(--ui); color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none;
  border: 2px solid var(--ink); padding: 0.85rem 1.4rem; border-radius: 999px;
}
.read:hover { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }

/* personal hello: the warm first thing you see */
.hello {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 4.5rem) var(--gutter) clamp(1rem, 3vw, 2rem);
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: clamp(1.25rem, 4vw, 3rem); align-items: center;
}
.hello-face {
  width: clamp(6.5rem, 14vw, 10rem); aspect-ratio: 1; border-radius: 50%; object-fit: cover;
  box-shadow: 0 0 0 6px var(--paper), 0 0 0 9px var(--sun);
  margin: 9px;
}
.portrait-initial {
  display: grid; place-items: center; background: var(--blush); color: var(--sea);
  font: 400 clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5rem)/1 var(--display);
}
.hello h1 { font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 6.5vw, 4.75rem); margin-bottom: 0.9rem; }
.hello-text > p { margin: 0; max-width: 42rem; font-size: clamp(1.1rem, 1.6vw, 1.3rem); line-height: 1.6; }
.hello-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.5rem; margin-top: 1rem !important; font-size: 1rem !important; color: var(--stone); }
.hello-links a { font-weight: 600; }

.lead { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-top: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 2.5rem); }

/* sign-off after each story */
.signoff {
  max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter)); margin: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 3.5rem) auto 0; padding: 0 var(--gutter);
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 1.25rem; align-items: center;
}
.signoff-face { width: 4.5rem; aspect-ratio: 1; border-radius: 50%; object-fit: cover; font-size: 2.2rem; }
.signoff p { margin: 0; color: var(--stone); font-size: 1.02rem; }
.signoff .signoff-name { font: 400 1.4rem/1.2 var(--display); color: var(--ink); margin-bottom: 0.3rem; }

/* ---------- story list rows ---------- */
.list { max-width: var(--wide); margin: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4rem) auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); }
.list-h { font-size: 1.15rem; letter-spacing: -0.01em; padding-bottom: 0.9rem; border-bottom: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.row {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(10rem, 17rem) 1fr; gap: clamp(1rem, 3vw, 2.25rem);
  padding: 1.75rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); align-items: start;
}
.row-img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 8 / 5; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 10px; }
.row h3 { font-size: clamp(1.4rem, 2.6vw, 1.9rem); margin-bottom: 0.5rem; }
.row h3 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.row h3 a:hover { color: var(--sea); }
.row-excerpt { margin: 0 0 0.75rem; color: var(--stone); font-size: 1.05rem; max-width: 38rem; }
.all { margin-top: 1.5rem; font: 600 1rem var(--ui); }

/* ---------- story page ---------- */
.story-head { max-width: 52rem; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 4.5rem) var(--gutter) 0; }
.story-head h1 { font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 6vw, 4.5rem); letter-spacing: -0.015em; margin-bottom: 1.25rem; }
.standfirst { font-size: clamp(1.2rem, 2vw, 1.4rem); line-height: 1.5; color: var(--stone); margin: 0 0 1.5rem; max-width: 40rem; }
.story-cover { max-width: var(--wide); margin: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 2.5rem) auto 0; padding: 0 var(--gutter); }
.story-img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 14px; }
.story-cover figcaption, .prose figcaption { font: 400 0.9rem/1.4 var(--ui); color: var(--stone); margin-top: 0.6rem; }

.prose { max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter)); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3rem) var(--gutter) 0; }
.prose > * + * { margin-top: 1.3em; }
.prose p, .prose ul, .prose ol { margin-bottom: 0; }
.prose h2 { font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 3vw, 2.1rem); margin-top: 2.2em; }
.prose h3 { font-size: 1.35rem; margin-top: 1.8em; }
.prose blockquote { margin-left: 0; padding-left: 1.25rem; border-left: 3px solid var(--sea); font-style: italic; color: var(--stone); }
.prose figure { margin: 2.2em 0; }
.prose figure img { border-radius: 10px; width: 100%; }
.prose hr { border: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin: 2.5em 0; }
.prose li + li { margin-top: 0.35em; }
.prose table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font: 0.98rem/1.45 var(--ui); }
.prose th, .prose td { text-align: left; padding: 0.55rem 0.5rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); vertical-align: top; }
.prose th { font-weight: 700; }

.disclose {
  font: 400 0.92rem/1.5 var(--ui); color: var(--stone);
  padding: 0.75rem 1rem; background: var(--surface); border-radius: 10px;
}
.tags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; font: 500 0.92rem var(--ui); }
.tags a { text-decoration: none; border: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: 0.3rem 0.8rem; border-radius: 999px; color: var(--ink); }
.tags a:hover { border-color: var(--sea); color: var(--sea); }

/* affiliate pick: the one place the marigold shows up in the text */
.pick {
  background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-left: 6px solid var(--sun);
  border-radius: 10px; padding: 1.25rem 1.4rem; margin: 2em 0;
  font-family: var(--ui);
}
.prose .pick { margin-top: 2em; }
.pick p { margin: 0; }
.pick-kind { font-size: 0.95rem; color: var(--stone); }
.pick-name { font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.4rem; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.005em; line-height: 1.2; margin-top: 0.15rem !important; }
.pick-note { font: 400 1.02rem/1.55 var(--text); margin-top: 0.5rem !important; }
.pick-cta, .tip-btn {
  display: inline-block; margin-top: 1rem; background: var(--sun); color: var(--sun-ink);
  font: 700 1rem/1 var(--ui); text-decoration: none; padding: 0.8rem 1.25rem; border-radius: 999px;
}
.pick-cta:hover, .tip-btn:hover { filter: brightness(1.06); text-decoration: underline; }

.tip {
  max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter)); margin: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 3.5rem) auto 0; padding: 0 var(--gutter);
}
.tip > * { margin: 0; }
.tip { } .tip h2 { font-size: 1.4rem; }
.tip { background: var(--blush); border-radius: 14px; padding: 1.5rem clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 2rem) 1.75rem; max-width: var(--measure); }
.tip p { margin-top: 0.5rem; color: var(--stone); font-size: 1.05rem; }

/* ---------- newsletter band ---------- */
.letter { background: var(--band); color: var(--band-ink); margin-top: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5rem); }
.letter-inner {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4rem) var(--gutter);
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0.75rem clamp(1.5rem, 5vw, 4rem); align-items: end;
}
.letter h2 { font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3.6vw, 2.75rem); grid-column: 1; }
.letter p { margin: 0; grid-column: 1; opacity: 0.85; font-size: 1.05rem; }
.letter-form { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1 / span 2; display: flex; gap: 0.5rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.letter-form input {
  flex: 1 1 14rem; min-width: 0; font: 400 1.05rem var(--ui); padding: 0.85rem 1rem;
  border: 2px solid var(--band-ink); border-radius: 999px; background: transparent; color: var(--band-ink);
}
.letter-form input::placeholder { color: var(--band-ink); opacity: 0.55; }
.letter-form button {
  font: 700 1rem var(--ui); padding: 0.85rem 1.4rem; border-radius: 999px; border: 2px solid var(--band-ink);
  background: var(--band-ink); color: var(--band); cursor: pointer;
}
.letter-form button:hover { background: var(--sun); border-color: var(--sun); color: var(--sun-ink); }
.story + .letter { margin-top: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5rem); }

/* ---------- index pages ---------- */
.page-head { max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 4rem) var(--gutter) 0; }
.page-head h1 { font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 6vw, 4rem); letter-spacing: -0.015em; }
.page-head p { margin: 0.75rem 0 0; color: var(--stone); font-family: var(--ui); }
.page-head + .list { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
.dest-index {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 2rem auto 0; padding: 0 var(--gutter);
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; font: 500 1rem var(--ui);
}
.dest-index a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 999px; padding: 0.4rem 0.9rem; }
.dest-index a span { color: var(--stone); margin-left: 0.25rem; }
.dest-index a:hover { border-color: var(--sea); }
.region { max-width: var(--wide); margin: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4rem) auto 0; padding: 0 var(--gutter); scroll-margin-top: 1rem; }
.region-h { font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3.5vw, 2.5rem); letter-spacing: -0.01em; padding-bottom: 0.7rem; border-bottom: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.dests { margin-top: 1.25rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(18rem, 1fr)); gap: 2rem 3rem; }
.dest { scroll-margin-top: 1rem; }
.dest h3 { font-size: 1.2rem; color: var(--sea); padding: 0.4rem 0; }
.dest ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.dest li { padding: 0.8rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.dest li a { font: 600 1.1rem/1.3 var(--ui); color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.dest li a:hover { color: var(--sea); }
.dest li span { font-size: 0.95rem; color: var(--stone); }

.empty { max-width: 40rem; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(3rem, 10vw, 7rem) var(--gutter); }
.empty h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 3.5rem); margin-bottom: 1rem; }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.foot { margin-top: clamp(3rem, 8vw, 6rem); border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
main:has(> .letter:last-child) + .foot { margin-top: 0; border-top: 0; }
.foot-inner {
  max-width: var(--wide); margin: 0 auto; padding: 2.5rem var(--gutter) 3rem;
  font: 400 0.95rem/1.55 var(--ui); color: var(--stone);
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 2fr; gap: 0.75rem 3rem;
}
.foot-inner p { margin: 0; }
.foot-brand { font: 400 1.25rem/1.2 var(--display); color: var(--ink); }
.foot-note { max-width: 36rem; }
.foot-links { grid-column: 2; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.25rem; }
.foot-copy { grid-column: 1; grid-row: 2; }

/* ---------- responsive ---------- */
@media (max-width: 52rem) {
  .lead, .intro, .letter-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .lead { align-items: start; }
  .letter-form { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; margin-top: 1rem; }
  .foot-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .foot-links, .foot-copy { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; }
}
@media (max-width: 36rem) {
  body { font-size: 1.125rem; }
  .row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; padding: 1.5rem 0; }
  .masthead nav { gap: 0.25rem 1.1rem; font-size: 0.98rem; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) {
  .read, .pick-cta, .tip-btn, .letter-form button { transition: background-color .15s, color .15s; }
}
.tip { width: calc(100% - 2 * var(--gutter)); }
@media (max-width: 36rem) {
  .hello { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
}