Lastovo, the island at the end of the ferry line
The most remote inhabited island in the Croatian archipelago rewards the long crossing with dark skies, empty coves and a village of strange chimneys.
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The ferry from Split takes long enough that you stop checking your phone somewhere past Korčula. By the time the boat noses into Ubli, the island's small port, the mainland has turned into a rumour on the horizon.
That distance is the point. Lastovo was a military zone for decades and closed to foreign visitors, so it skipped the building boom that reshaped the rest of the coast. Today the whole archipelago is a nature park, and it feels like it.
Getting there
There is no bridge, no airport and no shortcut. Ferries and faster catamarans run from Split, usually stopping at Hvar or Korčula on the way. Timetables shrink outside summer, so check the Jadrolinija schedule before you plan anything else, and book a car slot early if you are bringing one.
The chimneys of Lastovo town
The old town spills down a hillside facing away from the sea, an old defence against pirates. Look up and you will see the fumari: tall, decorated chimneys that families built to show off. Some look like minarets, some like little towers. Walking the lanes at dusk, when the smoke is replaced by swallows, is the best free activity on the island.
Coves, dark skies and nothing to do
Rent a scooter or a small boat and work your way around the coves near Skrivena Luka and Zaklopatica. Pack water and lunch; many beaches have nothing on them at all.
At night, step away from the few streetlights. Lastovo is one of the darkest places on the Croatian coast, and on a clear night the Milky Way is bright enough to cast doubt on your sense of direction.
Before you go
- Bring cash. Card machines exist but are not everywhere.
- Restaurants keep short seasons; outside summer, ask your host what is open.
- If you can, time a visit for the Poklad carnival in winter, one of the oldest folk festivals on the coast.
